31 May, 2015
Watches – Time Zone
Love at first sight
Timepieces that display more than one time zone are indispensable to any man of action and ideas in a global world where the sun never sets
Hermes Dressage l’heure masquee At first glance, this watch displays only one needle for the minute hand. So how does one know what the time is? By pressing the integrated pushbutton crown. When pressed, the hour hand emerges from beneath the minute hand and whisks to its proper position. It is this clever feature from which the watch takes its name, translating literally as ‘the masked hour’. The watch also has a dual-time-zone function, in a window at 6 o’clock, whose hour also remains hidden (under the generic ‘GMT’ text) until the button is pressed, after which the hour numeral of the chosen second time zone pops into the window. The second time zone is set by means of the push-button at 9 o’clock. This playful hide and seek is orchestrated by an ingenious interplay between rake and pinion gears. This hedonistic experience is the result of a unique patented mechanism added to Hermes H1925 Manufacture caliber with automatic winding. The cushion-shaped 40.5mm x 38.4mm case in sapphire crystal is available in two versions: a rose gold series limited to 500 pieces at 32,900 euros and a series of 1,000 in steel at USD $21,000.
Louis Vuitton Escale Worldtime Released in a white gold 41mm case, the Escale Worldtime reinvents the worldtime chronograph with an inventive display and a hand-painted dial inspired by vintage trunk monograms – it is a bright and colorful take on the classic travel watch. More than 40 hours and 30 colours, applied one at a time by hand, are needed for each timepiece. The watch consists of three separate mobile discs, adjustable by the crown, and synchronised by the automatic caliber LV106: developed and assembled by La Fabrique du Temps manufacture purchased by Louis Vuitton in 2011. There is a yellow arrow pointing to 12 o’clock. To set the Escale Worldtime, you use the crown to line up your home city with this arrow and then you set local time using the concentric hour and minute discs. The yellow arrow will then always point to local time. The time in other cities can be read by lining up the city with the corresponding hour on the 24-hour ring around the outer part of the dial. Each piece costs around USD $67,000.
Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph When Patek Philippe introduced the original Nautilus in 1976, it became a classic. The Genta-designed watch was an aesthetic departure for Patek, their first stainless steel timepiece, and the brand’s first sports watch. The latest iteration of the famous Nautilus model, the Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph (in a 40.5mm x 45.5mm case), combines the chronograph function with a second time zone and day and night display. Perfectly integrated into the side of the case are the two buttons to adjust the needle for local time in steps of one hour forward or backward. To aid functionality, the chronograph pushers have been integrated into the crown. This unique combination of six complications required the development of a new movement, the automatic Caliber CH 28-520 SC FUS, visible through a sapphire crystal back. The Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph, reference 5990 / 1A, has a steel bracelet with a folding clasp that is pleasantly reminiscent of the 1970s. Priced at approximately USD $58,000.
Harry Winston Z8 The Z stands for Zalium, a zirconium-based alloy that is lighter and harder than titanium, extremely resistant to corrosion and exclusive to Harry Winston. While this latest Z-series piece continues past traditions, one significant aspect is new: the movement is supplied by Blancpain, and, like Zalium, it is exclusive to Harry Winston. The Z8’s caliber is based on the Blancpain automatic winding base caliber 1150 (formerly Frederic Piguet caliber 1150). As modified by Blancpain for Harry Winston, the caliber is known as HW3502, which displays the time in two different zones. The hands display home time, and the retrograde display shows the local time. The date is connected to local time. The local time can be adjusted forward and back, at any time of day, via the crown. The watch features a 44mm sapphire crystal case and is limited to 300 pieces at USD $24,000.