Pakleni Islands: Where Nautical Diversity Comes Fully to Life

When you set off from Hvar towards the open seas, the first sight you will stumble upon will be green islands scattered across the blue – those are the Pakleni Islands, a natural extension of Hvar, but beating to a completely different rhythm. What they are best known for is being the birthplace of Croatian nautical tourism, as they were ‘discovered’ by the international sailing community back in the 1960s. It is no wonder that today Paklenjaci, as they’re locally called, are the most popular nautical destination in Croatia, a true must-see for every boat in these waters.

Pakleni Islands Guide: Hvar’s Most Famous Nautical Escape

The Meneghello family are the epitome of the nautical tourism on the islands, offering the irresistible combination of hospitality and sailing, while in recent times, clubs Laganini and Carpe Diem Beach gave their mark on the nautical offer for modern tourists. All this makes the archipelago and the town of Hvar a spectacular nautical stage, but the popularity comes with the high price, just like in every other popular destination: overcrowding and environmental destruction, but that seems to be a universal tourism problem. On the other hand, if you were looking for summer parties, there’s hardly a better place for it. Last year, Hvar local authorities put a ban on the noise levels shutting down the loud parties, though, making them more appealing for those who were avoiding loud spots. It is no secret that in high season some visitors avoided coming here, as all of them – including us, locals – seek for 'Croatia as it once was' (as the tourist board ad touts), looking for privacy at sea, which in the crowded summer months is hard to find in places that are so interesting to the modern version of divinity - tourists. But that is also the reason why many came.

Why Visit the Pakleni Islands Beyond Peak Summer

Perhaps that for some visitors, the islands are better enjoyed in spring, when they are at least temporarily quiet. Besides, anyone who has visited them in the spring knows that they are full of wild asparagus and wild capers – we all have our secret spots to harvest them, so just like Paris, Paklenjaci are always a good idea to visit. The islands always offer slower living, like every true Mediterranean getaway. The smell of salt mixes with the heavy, sweet smell of pine resin, or paklina, which gave its name to the entire archipelago. Although the name also sounds like hell (in Croatian, pakao), there is nothing hellish about them: they were named after this basic material of old shipbuilding, a heritage that is still remembered today.

Sveti Klement Island and ACI Marina Palmižana

The heart of the archipelago is Sveti Klement, the largest island, that has two completely different faces. To the north is the ACI marina Palmižana, a sophisticated nautical base perfectly blended into the lush Mediterranean vegetation. It is the logistical heart for sailors and offers literally everything boaters may need, from electricity and water to Wi-Fi, but only during the summer season. As soon as you step off the pier, you will be greeted by a network of paths and olive groves that lead to the southern coast of the island. Although the walk is beautiful and relaxing, your feet in flip-flops will only take you along the path connecting the marina with Vinogradišće. In colder months, we suggest a trip to Vlaka Bay once, and if you can, arrange a return by tender. A one-hour walk will show you a different version of the archipelago, which is most popular in the summer.

Where to Eat and Moor in Pakleni Islands

Turn south, toward Vinogradišće, a turquoise bay where the social heart of the archipelago beats, a place ideal for casual luxury of swimsuits and tenders. When you get hungry from all that walking and swimming, we suggest restaurants Meneghello and Laganini, both with great style and creative menus, but completely different energy. 

Laganini is known for after beach cocktails and its canopied lounge, while Meneghello is an artist’s dream come true in the green heart of nature. There are around 40 buoys in the bay, available with booking, and the ACI marina is just a short walk away through exotic cacti that, as locals explain, only grow on Sveti Klement, where Eugen Meneghello cultivated a botanical garden in the early 20th century. His son Đenko is in charge of the buoys, and the view from the terrace of his restaurant Toto is breathtaking.

Marinkovac, Stipanska and Carpe Diem Beach Hvar

Sailing further east, the mood changes. The island of Marinkovac and Stipanska bay are home of the famous Carpe Diem Beach club, a place where pristine nature meets entertainment that, until recently, went on until the early hours of the morning. Recent noise regulations have reduced the club to entertainment by midnight, which is still excellent. There are few places in the entire Adriatic that balance so well between daytime swimming in the crystal clear sea and the title of the posh party capital of Croatia.

Jerolim and the Quiet Side of the Pakleni Islands

The neighboring Jerolim island is totally different, as a true naturalist oasis. If you prefer the sound of crickets to the sound of bass, interior of Sveti Klement is where you want to be. Dionis, a family-run tavern hidden at the end of a narrow road winding through olive groves between the bays of Taršće and Soline, offers a simple, authentic menu and a fantastic view that flows all the way to the not-so-distant island of Vis. Don't expect anything modern there – Dionis tells a delicious story of Dalmatia. Several restaurants on Vlaka are also great options for ships docked in the bay of Soline.

Vlaka Bay, Soline and Local Wine on Sveti Klement

Croatian coast surprises both above and below the sea. In this bay, divers often explore the remains of an ancient Roman villa, while yachts find peace sheltered by the islet of Dobri. A short walk through the pine forest leads to Vlaka, a place offering protection from southern winds, as a shelter on the north side of the island. There you will also find the island's only winery, Nikola Colnago, a charming place with delicious local wine and a soothing vibe.

Best Hidden Bays in the Western Pakleni Islands

When the sea is calm and the winds are quiet, the western edge of the archipelago is the best choice. This is a world from a postcard – for example, the ‘mini beach’ on Veliki Vodnjak, or the serene rocks and bays of Studeni and Pakleni Bok (rarely visited, in part due to the ban on anchoring because of submarine cables). Please sail these waters with great caution: the passage along the western part of the Pakleni Islands is a labyrinth of underwater rocks that requires careful study of nautical charts.

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Taršće Bay: A Quiet Anchorage Near Hvar

Those with ‘normal preferences’ in search of a quiet corner will love the bay of Taršće, sheltered from all winds. Untouched and popular for it, without a single crowded summer terrace or weekend house, the bay delights with sparkling sea and rocks perfect for sunbathing.

Ždrilac Passage and the Nautical Diversity of Pakleni Islands

This bay is the best proof that the most beautiful experiences on the Pakleni Islands are often hidden and require a bit more effort. Although Taršće is also popular among day-trippers in the high season, the evenings are quiet. Mere two miles away lies the adrenaline test that is the Ždrilac passage, where marine currents test even the most skilled skippers in a tight space, making this archipelago a true lesson in nautical diversity not only in Dalmatia, but in the entire Adriatic.