Return to the Lost Adriatic

These days, it's hard to find the kind of peace the Adriatic was once known for, especially in peak season. We’ve even gotten used to finding hidden corners in search of those special, quiet moments. However, there are still places for those who prefer calm over crowds. One such route will take you on a tour of the western part of the Zadar archipelago. 

Sailing around Olib, Silba, and Premuda feels like stepping back in time, to when the Adriatic was slower, quieter, and more honest. These islands have managed to avoid mass tourism, and they are silent, filled with nature, and have a relaxed island pace. Their magic lies in this slow pace, which makes them a perfect escape for a luxury yacht charter.

Sailing toward Olib, you’re greeted by the stunning Slatinica Bay, often ranked among the Adriatic’s most beautiful sandy beaches. It’s easy to see why. The sea is crystal clear, with shades that shift from turquoise to emerald, and anchored boats seem to float in mid-air. The shallow, sandy seabed creates a natural lagoon where time seems to stretch from morning till sunset.

The island radiates a gentle stillness. Narrow streets wind through stone houses and gardens where vegetables and figs are still grown. As we enter the village, we are greeted by overgrown stone paths and dry-stone walls. There’s no rush here, just the slow, almost meditative rhythm of island life. In the evenings, the scent of grilled fish and local wine fills the air, and meals are made from whatever was caught or picked that day, just like in the old times.

No cars, but charm galore

A short sail will take you to Silba, an island without cars. This alone changes the atmosphere in an instant. Instead of car engines, you hear footsteps, conversation, and the rustle of pine trees. The harbor is postcard-perfect, with boats tied along the waterfront and fishing nets drying in the sun. 

Known as the ‘Gate of Dalmatia’ and the pedestrian island, Silba may be small, but it hides grand estates, churches, and a rich maritime heritage. Many of its former residents were sailors who spent their lives at sea.

A walk through the village leads along narrow paths flanked by stone houses and gardens. Above it all rises the Toreta stone tower, offering sweeping views of the entire island. A short walk will take you to the top, and the reward is a panoramic view that you won't forget. 

The tower also tells a local Silba legend: in 1872, Captain Petar Marinić built it for his beloved, only to return from sea and find she had married someone else. Marinić then married her daughter instead. The tower still stands, a silent witness to this bittersweet tale.

Silba is also known for its beaches. The Pocukmarak Bay is home to ancient sarcophagi under the sea, while Sotorišće is a sweeping sandy beach whose turquoise waters rival, if not outshine, the Maldives. Swimming here is a whole other level of luxury.

Days on Silba pass slowly, filled with walks through pine forests, dips in shallow waters, and long hours in the shade. The island has an artistic soul, too. Every summer, it becomes a hub for painters, sculptors, and musicians, bringing eye-catching flowers, color, and fascinating details to nearly every yard. The iconic Marija Ujević Galetović Gallery stands out with its minimalist style, a true open-air temple of art. 

On summer evenings, Silba comes alive with live music, crickets sing alongside conversations drifting from courtyards and small galleries. The waterfront buzzes just enough, never too loud or too crowded.

The main port, Mul, sits on the island’s eastern side. It is sheltered from all winds except the bora and tramontane, which cause seiches. It offers around thirty moorings with water and electricity. While you can dock landward at the breakwater, it is advisable to do it bow-in because the water is shallow. Water is a little deeper at the western jetty, though moorings there can be shallow, and spots are often occupied. 

There are about thirty buoys in front of the harbor, and anchoring on the sandy seabed southeast of the beach is also permitted and reliable.The most popular place for anchoring is the uninhabited St. Anthony (Sveti Ante) Bay on Silba’s southwest coast. Well protected from the tramontane and mistral winds, it features a namesake chapel on the west side and a gorgeous sandy beach on the east. You can also anchor in the peaceful Papranica Bay, about a mile north.

A quiet paradise for divers

The final on our list is Premuda – the smallest and most remote of the three. While it offers fewer facilities, Premuda is home to one of the Adriatic’s most stunning underwater sites: the Cathedral. This remarkable cavern system lets sunlight through, creating magical patterns of light and shadow in the water. It’s a world-renowned dive site, and a natural wonder that is often the very reason divers choose to visit Croatia.

The Krijal port is located on the island’s west side. The small quay can host only a few boats, so various buoys have been set up for boaters. However, be aware: the lagoon offers little protection from strong mistral or sirocco, and you definitely want to avoid storms coming from the west. The surrounding reefs are great for swimming and diving, but should not be navigated through, and the five-meter-deep anchorage can experience strong currents at times.

On land, Premuda is all about simplicity. This small village with just a few streets sits nestled among olive groves that slope gently toward the sea. From the island’s higher points, you’ll see nothing but the open sea stretching into the horizon. The calmest places for anchoring are found in Krijal and Loza bays, where the calm sea offers a safe haven. 

Bear in mind: Premuda is an island where time is measured differently. Here, days pass slowly, and at night, the sunsets paint the sea in fiery reds and oranges.Food lovers will feel right at home on these islands. Freshly caught fish will please even the pickiest eaters, and the legendary Masarine tavern holds a special place in the island’s culinary tradition. 

This is a place where the island tradition blends with the smell and flavors of the Adriatic. Their Maja squinado pasta is unforgettable, and the tender, slow-cooked octopus under the bell is a must-try. Don't miss the unique taste of Premuda potatoes, made exceptional by the island’s soil and climate.

Three islands, one trip

These islands are ideal for a different kind of sailing trip when you find yourself in this part of the Adriatic. They’re also a good pit stop when traveling from north to south or vice versa, and even if you don’t like walking, you'll find it hard to resist any of the hiking trails connecting the different parts of these islands.

View all (10)

Olib charms with sandy lagoons and a peaceful village life, Silba delights with its car-free paths and creative energy, while Premuda offers underwater wonders and sunsets you’ll never forget. This route may not be the only way to discover the quieter, more honest side of the Adriatic – but it's certainly one that’s highly rewarding. 

A journey that reconnects you with nature, simplicity, and people still marching to the rhythm of life as it once was.