Breguet Wins the Prestigious Aiguille d'Or

For Breguet, there could be no greater recognition at the close of its 250th anniversary year. At the 'Watchmaking Oscars' in Geneva, the manufacture’s Classique Souscription 2025 captured the industry's ultimate accolade: the prestigious Aiguille d'Or Grand Prix.

Gregory Kissling, CEO of the manufacture, accepted the trophy, shaped like a golden wrist. For its momentous anniversary, Breguet chose to create a strikingly simple, single hand model. This timepiece is a faithful reinterpretation of the historic Souscription pocket watch and a powerful tribute to the brand's founder, Abraham Louis Breguet, who created the then revolutionary model back in 1790.

The anniversary version features a 40mm gold case, an alligator leather strap, and is mechanically wound. It is powered by the new Calibre VS00 movement, offering an impressive 96 hours of power reserve. Notably, the watch is not a limited edition and carries a price tag of €52,800. Exquisitely refined and elegant, the Classique Souscription 2025 won the jury over with its simplicity, proving that at this year's Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), 'less is truly more'.

The competition was formidable, with a total of 90 horological creations nominated across 19 categories. The jury, composed of professionals from the watch industry, deemed the creations from a host of brands exceptional, including: Angelus, Anton Suhanov, Audemars Piguet, Bovet 1822, Bvlgari, Chopard, Daniel Roth, Dennison, Dior Montres, Fam Al Hut, Gérald Genta, Greubel Forsey, L’Épée 1839, M.A.D. Editions, Urban Jürgensen, Voutilainen, and Zenith. A Special Jury Award was presented to Alain Dominique Perrin, President of the Fondation Cartier pour l’Art Contemporain, for his 'visionary role in promoting fine watchmaking'.

The LVMH Group had a double reason to celebrate. Their subsidiary Daniel Roth won the Time Only Watch prize for the Extra Flat Rose Gold model (7.7mm thick, €53,000). Their jeweller Dior Montres secured a second win with the La D de Dior Buisson Couture timepiece in the Jewellery Watch category, a creation set with a bouquet of coloured stones that mirrors the floral patterns of the high fashion house.

The family owned watch and jewellery manufacture Chopard also claimed two trophies: Co President and Artistic Director Caroline Scheufele won the Ladies’ Complication Watch for the Imperiale Four Seasons, while her brother Karl Friedrich Scheufele, head of Chopard's watch division, took home the Sports Watch prize for the ultralight Alpine Eagle 41 SL Cadence 8HF.

The Petite Aiguille award reserved for watches priced between three and ten thousand Swiss Francs went to Maximilian Büsser, founder of MB&F, for his M.A.D. Editions M.A.D. 2 Green model. This was a fitting way to mark the 20th anniversary of his manufacture, known for its original and technically demanding timepieces. Büsser celebrated alongside his friend Arnaud Nicolas, CEO of L’Épée, which was awarded the prize for the best mechanical table clock.

For 25 years, the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève has been steadfastly promoting and celebrating fine watchmaking. The annual awards ceremony for the best masters of mechanical timepieces remains the industry's most important gathering, successfully resisting the dominance of electronic technology.

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2025 PRIZE LIST

• Aiguille d’Or Grand Prix : Breguet, Classique Souscription 2025 
• Chronometry Prize: Zenith, G.F.J. Calibre 135 
• Horological Revelation Prize: Anton Suhanov, St. Petersburg Easter Egg Tourbillon Clock 
• Audacity Prize: Fam Al Hut, Möbius 
• Iconic Watch Prize: Audemars Piguet, Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar 
• Mechanical Exception Watch Prize: Greubel Forsey, Nano Foudroyante 
• Chronograph Watch Prize: Angelus, Chronographe Télémètre Yellow Gold 
• Tourbillon Watch Prize: Bvlgari, Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon 
• Sports Watch Prize: Chopard, Alpine Eagle 41 SL Cadence 8HF 
• Men’s Complication Watch Prize: Bovet 1822, Récital 30 
• Men’s Watch Prize: Urban Jürgensen, UJ-2: Double wheel natural escapement 
• Time Only Watch Prize: Daniel Roth, Extra Plat Rose Gold 
• Jewellery Watch Prize: Dior Montres, La D de Dior Buisson Couture 
• Artistic Crafts Watch Prize: Voutilainen, 28GML SOUYOU 
• Ladies’ Complication Watch Prize: Chopard, Imperiale Four Seasons 
• Ladies’ Watch Prize: gérald genta, Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal 
• Petite Aiguille Watch Prize: M.A.D. Editions, M.A.D.2 Green 
• Challenge Watch Prize: Dennison, Natural Stone Tiger Eye In Gold 
• Mechanical Clock Prize: L’Épée 1839, Albatross L’Épée 1839 X MB&F