Embark on a journey to Murter Island and discover Betina, a village where the legacy of the seafaring gajeta sailboat lives on. Explore its bustling marinas and vibrant past, a testament to generations of skilled shipbuilders
The soul of the Gajeta: Unveiling Betina’s boatbuilding legacy
Betina isn’t just a village; it’s a living testament to a legacy carved in wood. Stand with me in the heart of the renovated port, the salty air stinging your cheeks as sunlight dances on the rippling Adriatic. There, etched onto a weathered monument, lies a timeless proverb: ‘Of three sons a mother bears, one tills the land, two craft the boats. Here in Betina, even nails swim!’ This inscription whispers a tale of generations who built their lives on the sea, their spirit woven into the very fabric of this island village.
Sail into Betina’s soul: Your Croatian yachting adventure begins
Betina isn’t just another Adriatic gem; it’s a place where maritime heritage pulses through every cobblestone street. The centerpiece, of course, is the legendary Betina gajeta sailboat. But beyond this iconic vessel lies a legacy of handcrafted wooden boats, built by generations of skilled shipwrights. Their knowledge, passed down through whispers and practice, is a precious commodity today, with opportunities to learn this art form dwindling.
The tradition and craftsmanship of wooden shipbuilding, which by a twist of fate experienced an upsurge with the arrival of the Paška Filipi family from Korčula to Betina nearly three centuries ago, and with the Uroda family – blacksmiths and caulkers – made this place the center of wooden shipbuilding on the Adriatic.
Betina, like many coastal towns, pulsates with life in summer. Tourists throng the streets, restaurants hum with activity, and the sun reigns supreme. But beneath this vibrant facade lies another Betina, waiting to be discovered. When the crowds fade and the sun dips lower, the village slips into a peaceful rhythm. The air carries the scent of ripe olives, and the gentle lull of the Adriatic serenades the shore.
Locals go about their daily routines, their laughter echoing through the quiet streets. This is the Betina we sought – a place where authenticity reigns, and the true heart of the village beats strong. Even if the culinary scene offers a simpler selection, everything else is open for exploration and pure enjoyment.
Step away from the sun-drenched promenade and a different Betina unfolds. Here, time seems to whisper in shades of black and white. Domed coves shelter from the sun, while stately mansions and forgotten ballads whisper tales of a bygone era. These are living postcards, preserved in their timeless beauty.
No wonder Betina graces the list of protected historical sites. It may not possess the grand spectacle demanded by UNESCO, but it speaks a simpler truth – a language of fishermen, farmers, and the human spirit. Betina tugs at the heartstrings, a place where history isn’t a museum exhibit, but a vibrant echo in the cobbled streets and weathered facades.
Setting sail through time: Betina Museum of Wooden Shipbuilding
Once boasting eleven shipyards, Betina’s legacy lives on in its vibrant fleet. Today, masts of these beauties line the port, a testament to the enduring ‘Regatta for the Soul and Body’ and Betina’s cherished maritime heritage.
This historic village, nestled near Murter, is naturally sheltered and easily accessible by bridge or sea. With marinas in Betina and Hramina, plus nearby safe anchorages like Kosirina, Betina is a perfect launchpad for exploring the Kornati Islands.
The Betina Museum of Wooden Shipbuilding throws tradition overboard (in a good way). Here, you can explore a working shipyard, getting a hands-on taste of the craft that shaped Betina. Since 2005, this dynamic national museum has transformed the village from a tourist stop into a cultural powerhouse.
Beyond the sails: Celebrating Betina’s rich tapestry
Shipbuilding isn’t just history in Betina; it’s a living art form. Festivals, workshops, and even the redesigned port (think outdoor museum exhibit!) celebrate this heritage. And the strength of Betina’s women goes beyond the museum walls.
The ‘Dlan & veslo’ (Palm & Paddle) women’s rowing regatta is a recent revival of a cherished tradition. Since its return (last held in 1979), it’s become a beloved event, drawing both locals and international teams. Held during ‘Brganje Day,’ a celebration of the tool used for harvesting clams, this regatta offers a unique cultural immersion.
Ready to ditch the ordinary and dive into Betina’s vibrant heritage? Head to the village during the first week of August. It’ll be an experience you won’t clam up about!
In Betina, tradition is not just a relic of the past; it’s a living, breathing heartbeat. From lively dances and captivating performances to deeply rooted religious customs and exhilarating regattas, the village pulsates with its rich heritage. And among these vibrant expressions of tradition, the ‘Latinsko jidro’ (Latin Sail) regatta holds a special place in the hearts of Betinjani, the village’s proud inhabitants.
More than just a race of traditional boats or a festive gathering, ‘Latinsko jidro’ has evolved into a full-fledged movement, its spirit seeping into the very fabric of life across the Adriatic islands. It’s become an emblem of identity, a testament to the true essence of the Dalmatian soul.
Whether you’re a passionate admirer of wooden boats, captivated by the allure of Latin sails, enthralled by the tapestry of traditions and folklore, or simply seeking a taste of authentic local cuisine, Betina offers an abundance of reasons to visit. And the warm-hearted Betinjani, ever eager to share their treasured heritage, will welcome you with open arms, inviting you to experience their unique way of life.
Text Filip Bubalo
Photos Ivo Pervan, Boris Kačan, TZ Betina & Filip Bubalo
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