Čudesna šuma & Primitivo: A Return to Nature in Baranja

Just a few kilometers from Osijek, at the gateway to the mysterious world of Kopački Rit, lies a story of a complete return to nature and pure flavors. Its driving force is Mario Romulić, one of Croatia’s most acclaimed photographers, who has traveled the world camera in hand, covering war zones spanning Croatia to Rwanda, Congo, and Afghanistan. Among his many assignments, he served as an official photographer for the Aga Khan Development Network on humanitarian initiatives across Asia and Africa. To the broader public, however, he is best known for his breathtaking wildlife photography, earning the nickname 'the good spirit of Kopački Rit' for the incredible moments he captured over the years in Europe’s largest wetland.

Returning from grueling overseas assignments, he felt a growing need for a sanctuary, a place to heal his soul and reset from the heavy imagery accumulated behind his lens. He found his answer where it all began: in his native Baranja. In the village of Bilje, he bought a parcel of farmland with a simple, human desire to create his own haven of peace. What started as a personal retreat eventually evolved into a remarkable family adventure and a complete philosophy of life.

Čudesna šuma: A Family Sanctuary Built in Harmony with Nature

The Čudesna šuma (Wonderland Forest) project gained powerful momentum during the coronavirus pandemic. Step by step, Mario and his family built the estate with their own hands. The entire structure was crafted from solid timber processed manually in their own sawmill, while protection and a distinct visual identity were achieved using the ancient Japanese technique of Shou Sugi Ban, a traditional process of controlled charring and brushing that grants the wood exceptional durability and a striking texture. Yet, the true soul of the estate lies in the authentic details and memories woven throughout the space, as Mario proudly notes: 'My entire life is on display here.'

Organic Farming and the Philosophy of Self-Sustainability

The decision to embrace full self sustainability and organic farming alongside his family stemmed from a deep need to return to his roots, live healthily, and gain complete independence from the industrial food system. Over the years, this bold pivot proved almost prophetic, particularly amidst global crises and a growing awareness of the importance of clean, unadulterated food. At Čudesna šuma, the soil is never treated as a mere resource to be exploited, but as a living organism that breathes and generates life. Here, hundreds of varieties of fruit, vegetables, medicinal herbs, and spices thrive in natural harmony. Every plant has its natural companion and defender, protecting it from pests or providing essential nutrients.

Primitivo: An Authentic Open-Air Dining Experience Near Kopački Rit

Out of this unadulterated beauty, respect for the earth, and nature's abundance, a culinary project naturally emerged. Primitivo is not a restaurant in the conventional sense; it is best described as a relaxed, alternative gastronomic experience, one without formal waiters, set hours, or printed menus. This authentic story was recognized by the prestigious Gault&Millau guide, which awarded the estate its 'Experience of the Year' honor.

Mario’s primary inspiration for his recipes comes from the unpretentious regional cuisine of the Balkans, featuring dishes where the flavors of wood, smoke, and slow cooking truly shine.

'We didn't choose the name Primitivo by accident. I wanted everything to be genuinely old school, featuring fire in a hundred different ways and dishes inspired by Balkan traditions. Just real food, exactly as nature intended, free from pesticides, flavor enhancers, artificial colors, or preservatives. That's precisely why I decided to host intimate groups of around ten people: so I have enough time to dedicate to preparing every meal', Mario explains.

At Primitivo, cooking takes place under open skies right before the guests' eyes, accompanied by the crackle of fire and the fragrance of burning Baranja wood. The primary tools here are cast iron cookware, the traditional peka (iron baking bell), spit roasting, and an open hearth. Nature itself dictates the menu: meals are crafted exclusively from ingredients harvested that very morning from the garden or orchard, supplemented by produce from small local farmers who share the Romulić family’s values. Vegetables travel straight from the soil to the plate in a matter of minutes or hours, retaining all their nutritional value, natural texture, and forgotten richness of flavor.

The Romulić Family: The Heart of Čudesna šuma

What lends this story its unique warmth and vitality is the family's deep unity. Mario's wife Žana, daughter Lara, and sons Svebor and Ivor participate with equal passion and dedication in every aspect of the estate, from planting and tending the garden to preparing ingredients and welcoming guests.

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