The Neretva estuary, fresh oysters and the Pelješac Bridge are the main attractions of Malo more (small sea), offering an abundance of experiences. Far from the usual routes, this part of the Adriatic, Bay of Mali Ston, offers many ideas for a different summer cruise
Cruising enthusiast are mostly in one of the two camps – those who always visit their favorite destinations and those who are constantly looking for something new. Given that the Adriatic has been experiencing a yachting boom in the last two decades, there are almost no secret locations left, and most of the popular anchorages and island towns are dotted with boats big and small.
We have decided to take a trip to one of the last bastions of the private, secret Adriatic – not really secret, though, especially since the construction of the Pelješac Bridge – but is certainly not popular among the charter crowd. On the very south end of Dalmatia, between the Neretva Channel and the Pelješac Bays, there lies a marine area stubbornly resisting mass tourism. Here, at the Bay of Mali Ston, the crowds are still not a thing and daily rhythm is dictated by the wind, the sea and the mood of your sailing crew.
Sailing the Bay of Mali Ston: South Dalmatia’s Quiet Side
You can begin your trip in Ploče, a port town that is only occasionally mentioned as a yachting destination as it offers charter agencies, to rent a boat to take you to farther destinations. Connected by the motorway and near the airports in Split and Zadar, it is easily accessible, and its immediate surroundings hide one of the most beautiful freshwater wonders of the south – the Baćina Lakes.
Seven lakes connected by canals, bordered by forests and hills are the perfect backdrop for the first day of a cruising trip. The lakes are ideal for SUP, a trip along the coast or just quiet time in the nature. The light here changes from hour to hour, and the hills seem almost unreal – especially in the early morning, when everything is still calm and still.
We also chose the town of Ploče as our starting point. After leaving the port, the route leads towards the mouth of the Neretva, local symbol of freedom. A sandy beach, northwesterly wind you can set your watch to and ideal conditions for windsurfing and kitesurfing have made this location a must-visit for adrenaline sports enthusiasts.
The regularly scheduled (by Mother Nature) afternoon wind is particularly popular, as it creates perfect conditions for riding the waves almost every day. The place is a favorite among both beginners and experienced kitesurfers, offering enough space and freedom, without the crowds that spoil the fun on more famous locations. More surprising than the sports activities is the local vibe – chill pars on wooden platforms, locals who live for the wind, and the feeling that at that moment this is exactly where you’re supposed to be.
Everything is simple here, without the almost expected commercial kitsch. With local music, the smell of the sea and makeshift deck chairs enjoy your day slowly turning into evening.
Hidden Stops: Brijesta, Drače, Hodilje
A few miles farther lies the secluded and quiet fishing village of Blace – which doesn’t seek attention, but low-key gets it. Although it does not offer literally any organized form of tourist activities, this village is exactly what many of us need: a clean bay, a natural shelter and a peaceful night at anchor. There are condos to rent in the bay and a handful of mooring buoys.
At dusk, listen to seagulls and the soft lapping of the sea against the sides of your ship. The feeling of isolation here is not frightening, but rather liberating, and Blace seems to exist fully off-season and out of time. The only local tourist attraction is a former military tunnel in Duba Bay.
We continue our route towards Mali Ston, where landscape and history come together into perfect harmony. From the sea, the view of the Pelješac Bridge, an an imposing bridge that transformed the life on the peninsula, is particularly charming. The walls of Ston provide an impressive backdrop, but the heart of this place is on the plate – oysters, mussels and local wine here are not just for tourists, but a way of life. Tables by the sea, served without haste, allow every bite to be experienced, not just eaten.
Hodilje, a little farther away, offers a similar atmosphere, with an even more intimate tone. It is a spot without much glitz, but with a lot of character – as if everyone here lived aware that beauty lies in simplicity.
Brijesta’s oyster legacy: Tasting the Adriatic tradition
Next up is Brijesta Bay, ideal for fun in the sun, with crystal clear sea and dense pine woods that provide shade. This is the perfect spot for a day or longer of a typical summer vacation. Throughout the bay, oysters and mussels are grown by locals, and for some families, that’s been their family business for generations.
We visited the Lazić family on their raft, is used to check on the oysters and harvest, and were told that job kept them busy all year round, and they were worried about the rising sea temperature, which kills the shellfish. They welcome even unannounced visitors like us, for a super fresh seafood snack.
Continuing to Drače, another spot that does not pretend to be a hit destination, but charms with local wines and local charm, easily winning over visitors. A visit to a winery and a glass of Plavac Mali at the golden hour can quickly turn into your daily routine, with in the background the sea, boats and silence. While the sun is setting behind Korčula, you will inevitably thing moments like that were worth the trip.
Osobjava is a small bay and that’s it – no need for spectacular tourist-trap descriptions – as are two Prapratna bays. The larger is inhabited and the smaller one is merely a beach inside a tiny bay.
Gourmet Excellence in Trpanj
Finally, the route took us to Trpanj – a Pelješac town that, in addition to being a safe harbor, also provides mooring, and is the starting point for exploring the most precious Pelješac treasure: grapes. The culture of grape growing and wine tasting routes are what most visitors love about Pelješac, and we agree.
But that delight is a story for another day – a story you can hear from Jakov Bregović in his Tuna Bar, stocked with bottles from the best winemakers on the peninsula, and a pleasant surprise with authentic food and unbridled local-patriotism.
A little farther on lies the beautiful Divna (literally beautiful) bay, a great choice for a swim before you catch the mistral and sail on towards Lovište, Hvar or wherever your heart takes you. Locals say the bay used to be called Dimna, after the smoke (dim) that used to float above the bay, but over time the name softened into Divna, which sounds just like it, but has a more attractive meaning.
The charm of this route lies not in attractions, not in luxury, but in places that have retained old character and can hold their own against more popular destinations. These landscapes that do not require a filter, but will still take your breath away in photos, and these waters are both brimming with adventure and healing.
The southern Croatian waters simply offer something sadly rare: easy living and relaxing summer time. Oh, if you’re lucky, like we were, you might even see dolphins.
Text Marija Vuković
Photos Mario Jelavić, Kristina Peračić, Tanja Drinković, HTZ i TZO Trpanj, Goran Šafarek
