Šibenik Archipelago: A Small Route with Big Adriatic Charm
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Sailing through the Šibenik archipelago is always something special, as the proximity of so many islands gives it a unique charm, along with good restaurants, beautiful intimate coves, and the siren call of the nearby Kornati and Krka National Park
The Šibenik archipelago is one of the 'blue zones' of the Croatian Adriatic, extremely popular among sailing enthusiasts. There are several reasons for this – well protected coves, many good seafood restaurants and short distances between destinations. Although proximity to the mainland can sometimes be a double-edged sword, all those who have ever mastered the distance between Split and Lastovo will love the proximity of the islands to Šibenik – the distance between the mainland and the isle of Žirje is equal to the distance between Split and the Splitska vrata. What gives the archipelago additional popularity is the immediate proximity of national parks – Skradin at the entrance to the world of beauty that is the Krka National Park, the magical Kornati archipelago within reach, with the previously mentioned Žirje mere ten nautical miles away.
Why the Šibenik archipelago is perfect for this summer?
We enjoyed our sailing thanks to the kindness of NCP Charter, who let us enjoy one of their boats. The route along the channel of St. Ante was a special experience, leaving Šibenik and its walls behind and setting sail toward Jadrija. The channel itself may offer a swim in the coves on the western side. As soon as you leave the channel, you have to make your first difficult choice of turning either towards Zlarin, best known for its summer atmosphere; Prvić, another car-free island, attractive for the Faust Frančić Museum, several good restaurants and the sheltered Prvić Luka, or Šepurine, where time stands till. This year construction work on the Prvić waterfront makes it impossible to moor stern-to there, but any boat at anchor will find excellent shelter from the western winds.
We turned our bow westward, towards Tijat and Tijašćica cove, a true and tried shelter from the maestral, even for inexperienced sailors. The neighboring Zmajan is not a place where you can spend the night in a well-protected deep cove, but it is a favorite day trip destination with smaller sheltered coves, depending on the direction the wind blows. It is unpopulated, which gives it a special charm, and makes you feel like Robinson Crusoe. Nearby Kaprije has several locations worth stopping for, starting with the only inhabited town on the island (with the same name), connected to Šibenik by a regular ferry and catamaran line. Scarcely populated in winter with roughly 50 citizens, it is super-popular during the long summer season.
Spirito Kaprije: Restaurant, beach bar and island energy
The port of Kaprije allows safe mooring at the old ferry pier and buoys, but we rather suggest you drop your anchor in one of the well protected coves accessible only by sail. There, you will find all the best seafood restaurants (in the coves of Mala Nozdra, Magaš and Remetić), among them the most recently opened Spirito Kaprije, one of the liveliest places in the Šibenik archipelago. Right by the sea, with private buoys for guests, Spirito combines easygoing island atmosphere with a modern approach to gastronomy. One meal there was enough to make us understand the hype: pasta with scallops in a sauce with just a drop of vanilla was an unexpected, but totally irresistible combination. If fish isn’t your thing and you are looking for something more interesting, try Fregola Sarda, squid ragù with traditional Sardinian pasta. Their menu relies on Mediterranean flavors and fresh local ingredients, with an emphasis on fish and seafood, but in a more contemporary interpretation. Not just an exquisite restaurant, Spirito is also known for daily parties with exotic dancers, DJ sets and cocktails, turning the place into a proper beach bar, creating an oasis of gastronomical excellence combined with good vibes.
Across from Kaprije lies the isle of Kakan, with one of the most beautiful natural lagoons in this part of the Adriatic, Potkućina (bordered by two smaller islets Borovnjaci), with two restaurants for boaters and numerous mooring buoys. The neighboring Žirje, only inhabited by around sixty inhabitants in winter, flooded with visitors in summer was compared by our colleague to Vis – similarly, it used to be military property. Žirje is an excellent starting point for sailing out of the archipelago, toward Kornati, perhaps Vis or even the Blitvenica lighthouse in a good weather, so its southern coves are usually crowded, and bays of this island are full of boaters. Given the number of visitors, it could also be dubbed Krknjaši of the Šibenik archipelago.
Farther south, Vela Stupica offer excellent shelter from the westerly winds, but its name (trap) reveals the waters there are more difficult to handle with southerly winds. Vela Stupica restaurant has been popular for thirty years, offering simple grilled, and is still the most popular choice for many tourists arriving by boat. On the northern side of the island lies Koromašna cove, offering shelter from the winds from the southern quadrant and a restaurant of the same name, which was recommended to us, but which we had to skip this time.
Kornati as the natural continuation of the Šibenik archipelago
It is difficult to separate the Kornati archipelago from the Šibenik archipelago, at least its eastern part. It’s ‘Bermuda triangle’ is formed by restaurants located in a sheltered bays and is a true haven for foodies: on the island of Smokvica, Ravni Žakan and in the Opat Bay on Veliki Kornat lie several temples of local gastronomy. Piccolo tavern on Smokvica has been a peaceful oasis of gastronomic delights for thirty-one years, so it is no surprise that guests return not only from season to season but also from year to year. Their lobster pasta stands out as a must-try and is simply adored by yachtsmen.
Žakan cove and its restaurant are especially convenient for boaters, and they also offer accommodation. Popular for private events, the rich wine cellar is very interesting, which, in addition to the quality of the bottles, is also famous for its location, two meters below the sea level. Although Žakan is a perceived as upscale location in the Kornati archipelago, with a phenomenal location and superior moorings, their doors are open to everyone. As for the menu, foodies looking for Dalmatian meals with a modern twist will simply love Žakan: sushi with Adriatic fish, a long menu of dishes based on ingredients from their own garden, olive grove and vineyard. On top of all that, this is the perfect location for a photo session on the Adriatic turquoise backdrop.
Opat as the final stop
Opat Bay is home to the tavern of the same name, which already has somewhat of a cult status in the sailing circles and is a favorite among both locals and visitors. Boosted by the energy of Ante Božikov Dupin and his crew, they choose only the freshest ingredients and it’s hard to recommend just one dish on their interesting menu – but don’t skip their amberjack Wellington, signature fish and vegetable bake, or stuffed baked crepes. If you are not in the mood for dessert, go for one of the cocktails mixed by their two bartenders. This summer their signature drinks will be inspired by their partnership with Old Pilot's Gin, but you can always skip cocktails and enjoy a glass of perfectly chilled pinot grigio from the Coletti winery from one of custom Opat bottles.
Blessed are the lucky ones who can continue farther west, along the island of Veliki Kornat, towards Levrnaka, Telašćica, Dugi otok or Žut. But our story ends here, after this lovely small cruise around the Šibenik archipelago, which pleasantly surprises us every time we visit.
Text Darko Šupuk, Marija Vuković
Photos Kristina Peračić, Ivana Ledenko, Tanja Drinković & Mario Jelavić
