A medieval gem hidden between green hills delights visitors with its rich history and art scene, while the smell of truffles and local cuisine flavours make it even more attractive
Medieval charm and history of Motovun
The northern part of Istria is home to probably the most famous and most attractive Istrian medieval town Motovun – Montona, rising above the Mirna River valley, whose vista is one of green Istria’s most memorable sights.
The central point is the 13th ct belfry featuring Romanesque and Gothic elements, with a crenelated parapet, located next to the 17th ct Parish Church of St. Stephen. The Romanesque Municipal Palace, the largest secular building in Istria of that period is also located on the central square, surrounded by many other historic buildings. The Polesini family palace, now a hotel, is particularly beautiful.
The main city gate was built in the 14th century, and it features a mix of Gothic and Romanesque elements. Apart from defending the city, this was also the only way to enter the town centre. The gate consisted of two wooden doors and loopholes hidden in various places to protect it. Three coats of arms can be seen above the entrance: the coat of arms of Motovun, the Lion of Saint Mark and the coat of arms of the Memo family.
A beautiful, 17th ct loggia can be found on the lower square. Under its roof, decisions were announced to citizens, judges handed down verdicts, important contracts were concluded, and it also served as a promenade where, before sunset, young people exchanged shy glances for many generations.
Today, the loggia serves as the most popular Instagram and selfie location – mainly because of the beautiful view of the Mirna River valley, the Motovun forest and spectacular sunsets.
The Mysteries of Motovun: Tales, Vibrancy, and the Realm of Truffles
Not many places in Istria have such distinctive vibes as Motovun does. Legend has it that it was built by giants. The most famous one is Veli Jože, who was so big and strong that he could shake the Motovun church’s bell tower with his bare hands…
Some new age scientists believe this small town is so special thanks to its location at the intersection of the energy meridians of the Earth, the so-called Dragon Lines. As these meridians carry the positive life energy of the Earth through the landscape, a powerful source of positive energy is created at their intersections, through which the planet Earth breathes.
Such an energy charge has a relaxing and calming effect on people, increasing their concentration and spirituality, making them feel rested and invigorated. It is also good for meditation, develops creativity and, perhaps the most beautiful of all, increases tolerance.
Motovun is surrounded by dark but fairy-tale forests, and when it emerges atop its hill on foggy mornings, a whole world remains hidden in the mysterious oak forests – the kingdom of truffles, the famous subterranean fungi, so dear to every gourmand’s heart. We mustn’t forget wines perfected by the phenomenal terroir that makes Teran, Malvasia and Muscat so irresistible and ingenious.
Art, wine and architecture in the heart of the village
As we’ve said, not many places have such distinctive vibes as Motovun does, and even fewer places boast hotels such as Roxanich, full name: Roxanich Winery and Design Hotel, which has found its place in our ‘perfect escape’ recommendation of Croatian wineries for true lovers of quality wine.
It’s clear from the impressive exterior and every little detail in the interior that this building was never meant to become just another hotel in Istria. On the contrary, it offers something more, something different, something that goes beyond the average mindset in the tourism sector. Naturally, the focus is on the vine and the wine that actually created it.
After becoming well acquainted with Rhone Valley wines, Mladen Rožanić’s perfectionism did not allow him to stop and rest on his laurels after the first successfully cultivated wines. Instead, he constantly expanded his wine horizons and found meaning in research. The aim was to make a ‘great’ wine. And another one. And then another one…
Wine lovers will recognise the type of passion we’re talking about after tasting the blend of Plavac Mali from Pelješac and the Istrian Teran. While this might be unthinkable for some, this is just one of the challenges Mr. Mladen has successfully overcome. As he likes to say, he makes wines for connoisseurs and for world class gastronomy.
Another goal was to make a premium Pinot noir. This variety, considered one of the oldest grape varieties in the world, was ‘conquered’ by Mr. Rožanić in his bottle and in his own way.
His vision of making wines that can be drunk and enjoyed for decades to come has become reality. The vast majority of wines on the market are less than five years old, while Roxanich wines are only transferred from barrels to bottles after five years – sometimes even more. This alone is reason enough to visit this hotel boasting a view of the charming Motovun.
The beautiful stone edifice of the former Motovun’s communal wine cellar dating from 1902, opened by none other than Emperor Franz Joseph himself, is a mix of our present and his future, which have something in common. The same building makes us feel a bit aristocratic, and what was probably only a ceremonial duty at the time for the emperor created the foundation for a vision fit to host the culinary aristocracy.
Text Jasmina Stošić
Photos Đorđe Stošić, HTZ / Dejan Hren
