Soča valley is one of European natural gems, lying so close to Croatia that makes it a perfect destination for a quick, or a longer visit. Usually visitors strive to come back for a longer time after they discover the beauties of emerald river and surrounding attractions which include numerous outdoor activities, traditional hospitality enriched with a flare of local gastronomy
When you make your way from the sea to the mountains, up north, you will sooner or later end up in Slovenia’s Julian Alps and there, meet its daughter, the beautiful, emerald-eyed river Soča.
It has shaped one of the nicest valleys in Europe, the Soča Valley, that has become the center for outdoor tourism in Slovenia and, recently, one of the culinary hotspots of Europe, thanks to the Michelin star chef Ana Roš and her restaurant, Hiša Franko, but also some very interesting other gastronomical destination as a consequence.
You can arrive into the Soča Valley on the south, at Nova Gorica, or up north, over the Vršič mountain pass from Kranjska Gora, the world-renowned skiing resort. This mountain pass offers you a great alpine mountain road drive, where the views will take you over. Often you can see many motorcycles or ‘cabriolet’ cars enjoying curvy drive with open roofs.
Right before you descend into the Trenta valley, on the other side, you have to stop and visit the place where everything begins- at the source. It will take you about a 15-minute hike, with some easy climbing at the end, to reach the source of the Soča river…and it is a sight to behold.
The first city you will reach, going downstream, is Bovec, the adrenaline-fueled center of the Soča Valley. Rafting, kayaking, paragliding if you are looking for something to get your heart running, this is the place to be. Bovec also boasts a smaller airport, that can accommodate smaller aircraft or a helicopter, if you choose to arrive by air.
The river Soča is always with you, when it meanders down the valley, sometimes at a quick pace rushing over the rocks (from Srpenica to Kobarid, where all the kayaking and rafting takes place) just to settle down in the next moment, turning into almost a lake-like feature at Most na Soči, where temperatures of the water can reach 20 degrees or more in the hot summer days, and SUP’s replace kayaks.
You can follow the stream on the very nice, easy Soča hiking trail, which also visits some of the best sightseeing ‘must do’s’ of the valley, like the mystical Kozjak waterfall hidden in a cave or mighty Boka waterfall, the most water-rich and mightiest Slovenian waterfall with a total height of 144 meters.
In general, you could say, to get perspective, that Bovec is the adrenaline capital, Kobarid historical and Tolmin festive epicenter of the valley, and all are within reach from one another in an hour’s drive, so choosing one does not mean abandoning the other.
As indulging in the local food delicacies does not mean you have to skip on the Michelin-star restaurant Hiša Franko, where the food creations of chef Ana Roš will take your food experience even higher than the surrounding mountain peaks.
But staying in the traditional spheres, while visiting the Soča Valley you must try ‘frika’ – the potato and Tolminc cheese omelette or čompe, boiled, unpeeled potato with sheep’s cottage cheese, that’ll give you strength for day and night.
Wishing to sweeten up your life? Kobariški štrukelj is the way to go! A pastry with a signature, you could call these sweet dumplings with walnuts and raisins. You see, as every housewife prepares hers in a slightly different way, they mark or sign in with the fingerprint on the top… just to make sure her husband would not accidentally praise the neighbors…
On the menus, you’ll also find quite a few dishes made with fish, as the river Soča (and its tributaries) is known for its Marble (Soča) trout. The only permitted method of fishing in the Soča Valley is fly fishing, you can purchase permissions in certain hotels/campsites and TIC offices.
Traveling through Soča Valley is of course all about the emerald water, and there is no better place to enjoy it than visiting the gorges, that the water carved out through centuries. The Great Soča Gorge with its deep emerald pools or Tolmin Gorges with its circular footpath are the best examples of nature’s might.
But traveling through the Soča Valley one can’t escape the reminiscences of the times when canons were roaring over the Soča. Several well-preserved forts and trenches offer, besides the historical value, a great excuse to go on a hiking or biking tour of exploration and great views.
Fort Kluže and Fort Herman are the most popular and easiest to reach but go a bit higher, let’s say on Mt. Rombon or Krn, and the whole new world will unveil in front of your eyes. You’ll also find a hiking trail named »The Path of Peace«, that through a pleasant hiking experience connects all of the important historical points of the valley.
The secluded valley of the river Soča does blow you away, first and foremost with its crystal clear emerald waters with the background of relentless mountains, but also with its blend of high-end luxury experiences and the ‘free-floating’ world of outdoor enthusiasts. It’s hard not to fall in love after the first taste of its relaxed lifestyle, the quiet mountains, and refreshing emerald-coloured waters.
Text Peter Lenčarić
Photos www.slovenia.info/ Jošt Gantar, Domen GrÖgl, Alex Strohl, Ciril Jazbec – TENT Film, Alen Kosmač – Sidarta & Boris Pretnar
